T1N Sprinter just died
Was going around 70mph and suddenly all those light came on. The speedometer went to 0 and looks like transmission got stuck on 4th gear.
Don't forget that the fuse boxes aren't the greatest design. First thing we always try is to give it the old hammer fist (firm but gentle) where the fuse box is... See if the lights change at all. If they do, look there first.
Turn the headlights on and give it a bump. If they flicker or go on/off.... Might be your culprit with a ground or loose connection.
But it could be the ABS.
We’ve seen this before and found it to be the ABS module. Sent it to a diagnostic testing place but was unrepairable.
Becareful when you use your scanner...these US vehicles don't have ABS ...they have ESP...which is ABS + ....this important because your scanner will have a selection for an ABS module that isn't there and this confused us for a long time...choose the ESP module and you will see all the speed sensors there.
Brake, abs traction control all at once at the same time is usually indicative of a brake pedal switch or a wheel speed sensor , or both or maybe a blown fuse too.
The ABS on a T1n Sprinter is actually a traction control and automatic brake system rolled into one. For the ABS side, its also tied to both the brake pedal switch and the rear brake lights for safety reasons if either are not working the computer will throw on the light and turn off the ABS to be sure there won't be a conflict and they just work like old fashion normal brakes.
Both the ABS and ESP work by using speed sensors at each wheel. for the ABS when it senses that the brakes are applied AND 1 wheel is spinning faster than the others brake pressure is relieved from the slow (skidding ) tire and more pressure is applied to the faster spinning tire... this will not work if the when sensors are not working.
The ESP works backward to that in that the spinning tire gets brake and the non spinning tire gets power to drive forward without a brake force. The ABS sensors are on every wheel. Configured with toothed wheel on the hub or a magnetic pole ring. These sense the wheel rotation speed of each one. The system which has its own ecu checks the wiring and sensors every time you startup and if there is a fault seen, it turns the system off to prevent any conflict with the brakes. They then just work as normal brakes. The system also has a central pump too to supply pressure for modulating the individual wheel pressure when an emergency is happening. In short , if the wheel sensors are not ALL in agreement, you are going to get a trouble light.
Here is a video of a guy checking and cleaning the wheel sensors https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfYIXGFqing
